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Baby Changing Station Routing Project

     
Marking Out
  1. Start by making a 6mm mdf template for the uprights, bending a steel rule around some nails in the board to form the necessary gentle flowing curves.
Marking Out
  2. The shaped ends of the uprights are laid out using a variety of French curves.
Marking Out
  3. The template is cut using a jig saw than carefully sanded so that the edge is perfectly smooth, as the slightest ripple will be reproduced in the timber when you run the cutter bearing along it later.
Marking Out
  4. The front upright is shorter than the back one so make two templates, keeping the ends the same on both, just adjusting the middle length.
     

Cutting to Size

Cutting to Size
  5. Thickness the timber for the uprights and draw round the templates, trying to be as economical as possible, though inevitably there is a fair amount of waste.
Cutting to Size
  6. Bandsaw out each shape, cutting about 2mm clear on the waste side of the line. A 3/8 inch blade should get round all but the tightest radius.
Cutting to Size
  7. Use double sided tape to fix the template back onto each upright. Don’t overdo the tape; three 1” square dabs should be enough to hold it.
Cutting to Size
  8. Use a bearing guided trimmer in the router to cut back the waste to form a perfect copy of the template.
Cutting to Size
  9. It is always a little more difficult to work around the curves without slowing down and scorching the timber. A small amount of burning will sand off, but slow the router down a little if it is a real problem.
     

Routing Application

Routing Application
  10. Machine the cross pieces and cut the two top curved ones in a similar way to the uprights using another template.
Routing Application
  11. The frames are all dowelled together using the Joint Genie jig and 8mm dowels.
Routing Application
  12. Make a trial assembly to make sure everything is square and number all the joints lightly with a pencil.
Routing Application
  13. The groove for the end frames is formed with the router handheld, but if possible use two side fences for maximum accuracy.
Routing Application
  14. I wanted all the arises to be radiused over with a tiny ovolo cutter and a lot of this has to be done before the panel is put in place, just think about where you can access with the cutter before assembly.
     

Gluing and Clamping

Gluing and Clamping
  15. Assemble the panel and complete the rounding over on the remaining edges.
Gluing and Clamping
  16. The front face frame is dowelled and assembled. Angle the sash cramps slightly if necessary to pull it square as it glues.
Gluing and Clamping
  17. The rear frame is made up with an internal panel of white faced 4mm mdf, fitted into a routed groove as before.
Gluing and Clamping
  18. The edges of the front and back frames are dowelled down their length to fit into the ends.
Gluing and Clamping
  19. The two dowelling rails are formed with a dowelling jig. They will need a good hand sanding to clean up any cutter marks.
These are fixed in place with a single dowel, the centre being eyeballed and then drilled by hand.
     

Assembly

Assembly
  20. Assembly is quite straightforward, but if you can get someone to help you hold it initially it is a great help, at least until you get a few cramps in place.
Assembly
  21. The support strips for the shelves are glued and pinned in place using a nail gun which virtually loses the heads.
The melamine faced top and bottom shelves just drop in place in case they need to be changed for solid alternatives later.
Assembly
  22. The doors are veneered 18mm mdf lipped with a solid wood edging thicknessed to 3mm.
Assembly
  23. Hang the doors using flush hinges and fit the ‘touch to open’ catches. There is no need for any other handles with these as they spring the doors wide open.
Assembly
  24. Although I sanded the various components as I went along, a final light sanding cleans up any marks from the cramps. Finish is 3 coats of food safe oil.
     
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