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Kitchen Fitting

Kitchen Fitting
  Worktop, draining groove, cupboard panel door construction.
     
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Kitchen Worktop Jig 900mm
Kitchen Worktop Jig 900mm
KWJ900
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Trend Worktop Jig - Multi - function jig for accurately fitting kitchen worktops in 10 different widths from 250mm to 700mm wide
Trend Worktop Jig - Multi - function jig for accurately fitting kitchen worktops in 10 different widths from 250mm to 700mm wide
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£ 163,78
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T10 & T11 - Routing Worktops Accurately
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Worktops

Worktops
  Cutting and fitting kitchen worktops.
     

Routing Jigs, your questions answered

Routing Jigs, your questions answered
  Frequently asked questions about worktop fitting.
     
RELATED PRODUCTS
Kitchen Worktop Jig 900mm
Kitchen Worktop Jig 900mm
KWJ900
£ 267,29
Trend Worktop Jig - Multi - function jig for accurately fitting kitchen worktops in 10 different widths from 250mm to 700mm wide
Trend Worktop Jig - Multi - function jig for accurately fitting kitchen worktops in 10 different widths from 250mm to 700mm wide
KWJ700
£ 163,78
 
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Construction Of Raised Panel Doors

Construction Of Raised Panel Doors
  1. Traditionally, panelled doors involved complex mortise and tenon joints. The router mounted in the table and used in conjunction with a profile and scriber set, now produce an equivalent joint with greater ease. There are several profiles available with raised panel cutters to match.
Construction Of Raised Panel Doors
  2. As the name implies the ‘profile and scriber’ cutter performs both operations by re-arranging the block, groover and bearing. Raised panels can be made from solid wood or MDF and shaped by panel cutters again mounted in a table.
Construction Of Raised Panel Doors
  3. The scribing of the rail is cut first with the face side uppermost. The bearing regulates the depth. With all the scribes cut, re-arrange the cutter to profile all the components face side to the table.
Construction Of Raised Panel Doors
  4. When machined, the panel locates into the groove. Several passes with the panel cutter will be required to obtain the correct depth. Dry assemble all components to ensure a tight fit. Glue joints and cramp up. The panel is left unglued to allow movement over time.
     

Draining Groove Jig

Draining Groove Jig
  Introduction
Creating draining grooves in solid timber worktops for Belfast sinks is easier than you think when you use the Trend Draining Groove Jig. By following the simple stages detailed below, an excellent draining board can be achieved.

Draining Groove Jig
  Positioning Jig on Worktop
Decide if grooves are required on the left or right or both sides of the sink, and mark the worktop accordingly.
Using the jig as a guide mark the first and last groove position. The groove pitch (centre to centre) is 50mm. The nearest edge of the first groove must be a minimum of 100mm from the front edge of the worktop. The grooves should be ideally equidistant to the sink aperture, but this will be dictated by the sink size. Double check pencil mark positions of grooves and adjust if necessary.
Position the jig on the worktop to the marked pencil lines, then using the sight marks on the jig, align the marks to the edge of the worktop. Re-check position.
Clamp jig to the worktop using three clamps, ensuring the clamps will not foul the router base and that clamps are inboard of the rails. Do not clamp on the very edges of the jig.
The clamps may need to be repositioned for grooves towards the front and back of the jig. If clamping towards the end of the slots, ensure the top of the template does not lift.

Draining Groove Jig
  Setting the Depth of Cut
Set the router with guide bush fitted into one slot and position router to the shallow end of the jig ensuring that the worktop can be seen below the cutter.
Plunge router down until the cutter is just touching the worktop.
Set the router depth stop 4mm (maximum 4.5mm deep).
A 0.5mm difference in depth of cut can make a considerable difference to the width of finished groove.
Draining Groove Jig
  Routing the Groove
Release plunge and reposition router in first slot at sink end.
Hold router against the far edge of the template slot (towards top of jig).
Switch on router and plunge to height setting. Rout the groove feeding up the slope away from the sink-end using a slow feed. The slot in the jig will limit the length of the groove. The groove depth in the worktop will get shallower.
At the end of the cut move the router against the near edge of the slot and rout back down the slot towards the sink. The slots are 0.2mm oversize to allow for return pass. Ensure the router cutter passes out of the wood at the sink end.
Release plunge and switch off router.
Repeat this operation for each slot in the jig as required.
Before removing the jig, check all slots are routed to the correct length and correct depth. If any of the grooves are not correct, adjust the depth of cut accordingly and re-cut.
Remove clamps and remove jig.
Depending on the groove arrangement the first slot on the jig front may not need to be used.

Draining Groove Jig
  Shorter Length of Groove
The groove length can be made shorter to approximately 300mm long by fixing a user made batten (12mm thick, 50mm wide x 500mm long) to the top of the jig. This batten will deliberately restrict the movement of the router. The batten position will need to be calculated by the user as it will vary depending on the make and model of the router used. The batten should be placed on top of the jig and secured from underneath using screws through the holes in the jig body.

User Made Stop
For repetitive work, two user made stops can be made and fitted to the front edge of the slots. The jig has two fixing holes to accept No.8countersink screws for each stop. The stops should be made from 18mm thick MDF, size 50mm wide x 100mm long. Line up edge of the stops to the sight line and secure with countersink screws. The first time the stops are used, the router cutter will need to plunge into the stop.
A hex key is supplied if tapered rails need to be removed. When refitting ensure the tapered rails are the correct way round.

Finishing the Draining Groove
When routing is complete, remove any rough edges with fine grade abrasive paper.
Finish and seal the worktop with appropriate sealer, following the worktop manufacturer’s instructions.

     

Concealed Hinges For Kitchen Doors

Concealed Hinges For Kitchen Doors
  The use of concealed hinges are the most popular way of securing unit doors. It is important that the hinge is located correctly into a pre cut hole.
Concealed Hinges For Kitchen Doors
  A drill stand and machine bit are the tools usually required. However, the router is also an ideal tool for producing neat accurate holes, using a machine bit designed for use with a router and a simple template to obtain accurate holes. Machine bits are available to suit popular diameters of concealed hinges.
The template is constructed from MDF with battens to position it on the door edge. The router is held in place by the guide bush located in the aperture on the jig.
Concealed Hinges For Kitchen Doors
  1. The positions of the hinges are first marked on the doors.
2. Set the depth gauge so that the hole will be routed to the exact required depth. The template is clamped to the door and the router is positioned.
3. Rout each of the holes with a gentle downward pressure.
Concealed Hinges For Kitchen Doors
  The Trend Snappy quick release drill system includes drill bit guides for quick drilling of
fittings for hinges, drawer runners and other ironmongery pre-drilled with countersunk holes.
     
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