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Worktops

Worktops
  Cutting and fitting kitchen worktops.
     

Kitchen Worktops

Kitchen Worktops
  Basic Requirements
To produce a neat corner joint both pieces of the worktop need to have an edge routed to an exact shape to fit together perfectly. The Trend jig enables this to be done accurately. The jig itself has an aperture that guides the router (fitted with a 30mm guide bush) to cut both faces of the joint. The router must have a 1/2 inch collet and at least 1300 watts power.

Here we will take you through the basic steps to make a perfect corner joint. A 12.7mm (1/2 inch) diameter long reach cutter is required for cutting the joint. Conventional brazed tipped cutters reference 3/83D,TR17D or C153 can be used. Alternatively a replaceable tipped tool reference RT/11, RT/11M or RT/13 offering increased economy and productivity.

Kitchen Worktops
  Guide Bush and Cutter
The guide bush, when fitted to the router, must be concentric with the cutter, otherwise a poor joint will be created. To obtain concentricity with certain makes of router, a sub-base will be needed. This is fitted to the base of the router and aligned using a ‘line-up pin’.

Kitchen Worktops
  Fitting a Guide Bush
When using the Trend T10EK router, the system for ensuring concentricity is built into the base design. This has an inner plate onto which the guide bush is mounted. When concentric, a 1/2 inch (12.7mm) diameter x 2 inch (50mm) long cutter can then be fitted.

Kitchen Worktops
  Setting up the Jig
Three aluminium bushes are supplied for positioning the jig. These are fitted into holes in the jig, one being used to set the cut length to suit 600, 640 or 650mm wide worktops.

     
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Worktop Jigs

Worktop Jigs
  Worktop Jigs
The neatest and most practical method of joining worktops is to form a butt and scribe joint, most easily achieved using a router and Trend worktop jig. 1

Manufactured to close tolerances and designed for ease and simplicity in use, Trend’s worktop jigs allow butt and scribe joints to be cut accurately and quickly, while ensuring perfect results every time. Trend offers a range of worktop jigs to suit most kitchen, bathroom and other post-form worktop installations, from straight forward jointing jigs to more complex ones having the facilities for cutting peninsular units, angled and mitred corners, as well as recesses and cut-out’s for hinge’s, cable tidies and mixer taps.

All Trend jigs are made from rigid and durable solid laminate to retain their flatness and accuracy. In their ‘Combi’ range, each jig is supplied with turned aluminium locating bushes that press-fit into colour coded alignment holes to ensure precise margins and joint fit, while allowing fast setting out and re-setting for each routing operation.

Worktop Jigs
  Trend Worktop Jigs
The Combi 66 is made from 16mm laminate for extra stability and incorporates an adjustable width setting stop for accurately setting worktop widths between 500 to 650mm. This jig has a curved edge section for forming peninsular top ends and can be set-up to cut joints up to 3 inches ‘out of square’ to accommodate variations in wall angles etc.
The Combi 1002 is made from 20mm thick laminate, and is adjustable for worktops up to 1000mm wide. This jig has a range of facilities for cutting recesses and cutouts for most worktop jointing and fitting applications for domestic, office and industrial applications.
The KWJ900 is a 12mm thick all in one jig for the kitchen fitting tradesman, with set worktop widths of 400, 500, 550,600,650,700 and 900mm. Featuring engraved pin locations and template holes for 3/4” BSP mixer tap and 35mm concealed hinge bosses. The jig is supplied with 6 plastic locating pegs.

Using worktop jigs
Router:
Laminate faced worktops should be cut using a 12.7mm (1/2”) collet router of no less than 1300 watts. A 30mm O/D guide bush should be fitted (to suit all Trend worktop jigs). Ensure that the plunge action is smooth and that the plunge lock securely locks the cutter depth.


Worktop Jigs
  Cutters:
A 12.7mm (1/2”) diameter cutter must be used, ideally with a cutting length of 50mm and a plunge cutting (bottom cut) facility. Alternatively a 12.7mm replaceable blade cutter can be used. The combination of laminate and resin bonded chipboard used in worktop construction is highly abrasive and cutters, even industrial quality ones will blunt quickly. For best results, be prepared to change cutters as soon as they appear to be losing their edge. This will avoid damaging or burning the face laminate and reduce the risk of the cutter jamming or snagging.

Cutting:
Make the cut in a series of shallow passes, maintaining a constant feed speed, without forcing the router. All cutters should be allowed to cut at their own optimum feed speed (requires practice), without labouring and allowing the waste material to clear cleanly. However, a slow feed rate will cause the cutter to overheat, burning the material and destroying its cutting edges. Do not lean heavily on the router, but press it against the left hand template edge working from left to right. Set the depth (i.e. for each shallow pass) before starting the cut, and allow the router to reach full speed before feeding it into the work. If it is necessary to plunge cut into work top material, locate the router on the template and make several shallow plunge cuts to prevent the waste jamming around the cutter and burning.
Direction of cut:
When cutting worktops, it is important to feed the router into the work in the correct direction. The rotational direction of the cutter will always cut cleanly into the left hand side of the cut, but will cause breakout as it cuts out on the right hand side. When cutting post-formed worktops this will rip the laminate from the right hand edge. Therefore always cut into the post-form edge, with the waste section of worktop on the right hand side. This means that when cutting butt and scribe joints on the right hand end of a worktop the female part will be cut laminate face upwards and the male laminate downwards. A joint at the left hand end will be cut vice versa.


Worktop Jigs
  Setting-Up:
Always ensure that the worktop sections are fully supported and that where possible the template is supported on both sides of the slot. Where a small piece of waste worktop is being cut away, make sure that it is supported so that it cannot break away prior to the cutter completing the cut.
For a female cut, locate the bushes or pegs through the template to set the width of the abutting top, using the adjustable stop. Fit the bushes/pegs into the locations on the edge of the template slot with the width stop against the end of the worktop. Clamp the jig securely and rout out the joint face.
Always cut the male section before cutting the worktop to length. Locate the bushes/pegs into the front location holes on the jig so that the jig is positioned at right angles to the front edge of the worktop. If possible allow enough waste material to support both sides of the template slot. Clamp securely and rout the male end.

Worktop Jigs
  Jointing:
All Trend jigs have templates for cutting connecting bolt recesses. Position these carefully working from the connecting bolt centre line and positioning them so that they are easily accessible from inside the base units once the worktop is fitted. To ensure that the top surfaces of the worktop are flush, biscuits dowels can be fitted using a biscuit joint cutter in the router (Trend cutter ref 342).

Other Trend worktop accessories:
Worktop scriber (ref M/KWS01): Essential for precise marking out and alignment of worktop jigs. 6
Kitchen Fitters Cutter pack 1(ref TR/KFP/1) Contains 2 x 12.7 x 50mm straight cutters, 1 x 12.7 x 63mm straight cutter & 1 x 12.7 x 25.4 flush tri cutter.
Kitchen Fitters Cutter pack (ref TR/KFP/2) Contains 2 x 12.7 x50mm straight cutters, 1 x 12.7 x 25.4 flush trim cutter & 1 x biscuit joint cutter.
Hardwearing carry cases are available for all Trend Worktop Jigs.

     
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Joining Kitchen Worktops

Joining Kitchen Worktops
  The joint between worktops that meet has often been made by fitting a surface mounted joining strip. These are both unhygenic and unsightly.
Postform jigs can be hired or purchased to produce a near invisible joint within 15 minutes.
The main use of the jig is to produce the mason’s mitre which consists of a male and female routed edge which will perfectly match.
Joining Kitchen Worktops
  The underside is recessed to accept panel butt connectors which will hold the joint together tightly. Biscuit jointing is recommended for greater strength and alignment of the joint.
Joining Kitchen Worktops
  There are several applications for postform jigs, from cutting 90 degree joints, mitre corner joints for hobs, peninsular joints and corner finishes, either straight or rounded.
Joining Kitchen Worktops
  The jig consists of precision machined slots which guide the router. Bushes are positioned in
various combinations of holes to align the jig on the worktop. The holes are colour coded for easy recognition.
The router is fitted with a 30mm guide bush and a 1/2” router cutter ref. 3/83D. The jig is held in place by either quick action clamps or optional clamping brackets.
     
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